Don't over-cleanse
In addition to keeping the urge to pile on the products at bay, you also want to make sure you don't overdo the shampooing. "Over-shampoooing can dry out your hair," Waajid says. "Straighter hair can shampoo hair every day with a good shampoo, but the curlier your hair is, the less often you should shampoo it." Waajid advises those with tighter curl patterns to shampoo once every other week with a nutrient-rich shampoo designed for curlier hair types, like Moroccanoil Moisture Repair Shampoo, $24.
Protective styles are great; over-manipulation of the scalp is not
One of the best ways things about natural hair is the endless possibilities for styling and protective styles are seductive for their ability to maintain hair integrity while creating a look. But just be mindful of your scalp with these styles because pain is not going to help you gain the length you inevitably want. "Some women twist or set their hair too tight, usually because they have different textures mixed in," Waajid says. "Some people have really tight curls, some people have a really kinky curl and they're not sure what to do so they either twist it or braid it too tightly, or they just neglect it, which is even worse."
Waajid suggests going to a professional who installs protective styles or weaves correctly (note: it's not supposed to hurt) and use sparing amounts of products designed for protective styles like Taliah Waajid Protective Styles Healthy Hair Under There Bamboo, Avocado And Peppermint Conditioning & Restoring Serum, $9.97. Also, protective styles have to be cleansed just like regular hair, so it's important to watch product buildup here as well.
Get regular haircuts
One of the things no one struggling to get some kind of length wants to hear is that they have to cut some of it off, but please know that carrying dead ends isn't really "length" and that skipping regular trims works against your goals.
"Unless you get rid of those dead ends, you're not going to grow length; you have to trim it," Sturdivant-Drew says. "Don't skip your trims: you should definitely have someone manage your ends every two to three months." You can also use a product like SheaMoisture Manuka Honey & Yogurt Hydrate + Repair Split End Balm, $9.99, if your ends are starting to look distressed — but know it's just a temporary fix. By the time you see them, it's time for a trim. Even a micro-trim will help, but the dead ends do have to go.
You are what you eat
You knew it was coming, but here comes the dietary advice: yes, eating the right foods, drinking plenty of water and maintaining a healthy lifestyle does impact the health of your hair. And if you're eating junk food all the time, your hair growth goals are going to suffer. "You are what you eat, so whatever you put into your body is what you get out of your body," Sturdivant-Drew says. "So, if you're eating stuff that's too salty or fried food all the time, you see it in your body and in your hair."
She's also a big fan of hair vitamins to help with growth and suggests Nutrafol, $88, to a lot of clients. "I always say it's about taking good hair vitamins that actually work. I always start by asking questions about diet when clients complain their hair isn't growing. What are you putting in your body? Why isn't your hair growing? I always refer clients to this vitamin to get their hair to grow."
Be careful with color
One of the great temptations, once you stop chemically processing, is the desire to flirt with permanent hair colors you might not have been able to try with a relaxer in your hair. But just know that, well, that's a chemical process as well, so it's going to do some things. "You know, I love hair color on natural hair, but it is 10 times drier," Sturdivant-Drew says. "It's pretty, it's stylish, but it definitely dries the hair out so much more."
Waajid recommends wigs if you want to play around with color but says if the allure of hair color is too strong to resist, do not attempt it at home. "I would say hair color done properly won't hurt (your hair) but that means going to a professional, someone who specializes in that kind of thing. Any time you put chemicals in your hair, you need someone who specializes in that particular chemical process so they can analyze your hair and know exactly how long to process your hair. They can also really give you some great advice on how to keep your hair healthy." One of the most important products for natural hair — color-treated or not — is a good hair mask to replace lost moisture, like Hask Coconut Milk & Organic Honey Curl Care Deep Conditioner, $1.99.
