Skin

Is Encapsulated Retinol the Gentle Alternative We've Been Waiting For?

Is encapsulation the key to managing the potent ingredient?

by Heather Cichowski | COMMENT

PHOTO 7/10

Encapsulated Retinol Problems Encapsulation seems like a star method, but Akridge says that there are potential problems. He says that heat and light are still threats. (So, look for retinol products in dark bottles and/or tinted capsules. Prystowsky says do not store products near sunlight or radiators.)

Additionally, In some cases the capsule may be many times bigger than the retinol dosage so other nonactive ingredients could be added to the formula to "bulk it out." Akridge says that some of these ingredients could bind to retinol, rendering it less effective.

Another thing to consider? The potential break down of encapsulated retinol. It depends on the encapsulation method used; heat, time and production. Akridge says that some liposomes are fragile, so they are added in the last step of production. "If they survive production, and make it into the bottle intact, they sit there in a chemical mixture waiting for purchase, hoping they won't be exposed to heat or light," says Akridge. "The question I have is if the remaining liposome-encapsulated retinol makes it to your skin, is this concentration effective enough to do anything?"

If the encapsulation works, the encapsulated retinol should last longer than "regular" retinol, but it still doesn't last forever.

Image via Imaxtree

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