Approaching a seemingly endless aisle of hair color boxes can be intimidating, but approaching it not knowing the shade that will best suit you is terrifying. Before you head to the store, do a little research to find your perfect color. You could call your salon and ask your stylist which hair color(s) will look best on you (even if you're doing it at home she'll still likely help you out).
No matter what source you use to find your shade, remember the DIY colorist's credo: If you're coloring at home, stay within two shades of your natural hair color and ideally within the same color family. Save drastic color changes for a professional.
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Choose your ideal shade
If you have a warm skin tone (with yellow or orange undertones that look best in yellow-based makeup colors, such as tan, honey, wheat, cream, and beige), look for terms like "golden," "auburn," "copper," and "bronze," which usually indicate warmth. If you have a cool skin tone (with pink or blue undertones that look best in blue-based makeup colors, such as raspberry, burgundy, silver, gray, and emerald green), consider shades marked "ash," "ice," and "violet." And if you just can't decide, choose shades labeled "caramel," "champagne," and "natural/neutral," which usually work with both cool and warm skin tones.
Remember, too, that the shade of your current hair color (if you already dye your hair) will affect your results. If you don't take this into account, your hair could turn out looking nothing like the photo and/or results chart on the side of the box. For example, if your hair has a lot of red in it and you want to cover that, you might want to buy a cool or neutral shade instead of a warm shade, since a warm hue will bring out the red.
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Decipher the color name
To find the best color, you need to understand the lingo. The codes on the box usually function on a scale of 1 (darkest) to 10 (lightest) and include the following letters: R=Red, G=Golden, A=Ash, W=Warm, N=Neutral, C=Cool, B=Beige. But use caution: Not every brand or line uses these the same way. If you're stumped, call the number on the side of the box to have an expert help you. Don't be shy. That's what they're there for.
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Choose the right formula
To determine whether or not to use permanent hair dye, ask yourself these two questions: What condition is your hair in, and how long do you want your new hair color to last?
If your hair is in great shape or you want to slightly lift (lighten) your color, you'll likely need a permanent formula. Permanent also lasts a long time, so it's a good option if you already know you love the shade and don't want to frequently touch up.
If your hair usually feels dry between colorings, you only want to enhance your color, or you want to go darker, try a gentler semi-permanent or demi-permanent formula (like Clairol Natural Instincts, $8.99). This is also a better option when trying a new shade -- if you hate it, it'll wash out more quickly than permanent dye.
Note: When a product says it will last through a certain number of shampoos, it means that the color will start to fade by then -- not that your hair will completely return to its pre-colored state. This is especially true if you're using a dark color.
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Protect yourself -- and your countertop
It's tempting to skip these steps, but don't. They are vital for a smooth, fuss-free finish. Trust me, a rushed, impulsive dye job is never a good idea.
Step 1: Plan ahead. Deep condition at least a week before, and don't shampoo a day or two before coloring so your natural oils can help protect your scalp from irritation.
Step 2: Don't skip the skin allergy test 48 hours before you color. The last thing you want is a nasty allergic reaction.
Step 3: Prevent stains. Wear gloves, a smock, and old clothes. Cover the floor and your countertop with plastic drop cloths or towels you don't mind staining. To protect your skin, dab petroleum jelly or a stain preventer (such as Repelle Skin Shield Wand, $5.99) on your ears, neck, and around your hairline. (Caveat: Put your hair up first. If this product gets on your hair pre-dye, it can keep the dye from penetrating your hair shaft.)
From the horrible ("How did I end up with orange hair!?") to the annoying ("Aack! There's permanent dye on my bathroom counter!"), there's a lot that can go wrong when you crack open a box of DIY hair color.
Sadly, I'm no stranger to these kinds of box color snafus, so I decided to share a few tips -- gathered from personal experience as well as interviews with professional colorists -- that will help you achieve regret-free results. Think of them as your guide to not looking like a cheetah or zebra post-dye. You can thank me later.
