If you're looking to lighten some serious dark spots, your dermatologist might suggest a product that contains hydroquinone. However, there's been a lot of controversy surrounding this ingredient, which has been banned in several countries because of nasty side effects, such as excessive redness, dryness, and burning sensation when applied. Fusco recommends Elure Advanced Skin Lightening Lotion, $150, as an alternative that works just as well. The key ingredient is a mushroom-derived enzyme called Melanozyme, which breaks down melanin (dark pigment) in your skin. Clinical data shows a change in just seven days. "I tell my patients that they'll probably need to go through two bottles before they see dramatic results," says Fusco. But the lack of side effects makes it worth the wait.
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Use soy for acne scars
When you're trying to diminish the red mark left behind from a recent breakout, look for a product that contains soy, like Aveeno Positively Radiant Daily Moisturizer SPF 30, $16.99. "The proteins in soy help diminish redness and blotchy coloring," says Warren Wallo, a research scientist with Johnson & Johnson. Plus, sun exposure can turn a temporary red mark into a permanent scar (because the "new" skin is more susceptible to hyperpigmentation). So, the SPF is an added bonus that'll help prevent that from happening.
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Apply vitamin C for overall brightness
Vitamin C is one of the most popular ingredients in brightening products because it not only works to lighten the hyperpigmentation you already have, it also helps prevent further spots. "It's a great antioxidant," says Miami dermatologist Leslie Baumann, MD. "But it's very unstable, so you have to strategically pair it with other ingredients." The recently-launched Kiehl's Clearly Corrective Dark Spot Solution, $49.50, contains a new, more stable version of "activated" vitamin C coupled with white birch and peony extracts to maximize skin brightening. For a potent dose, try Lumene Vitamin C+ Radiant Beauty Drops, $21.99, with lingonberry seed oil.
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Opt for acids to exfoliate
While acids like alpha hydroxy and glycolic don't directly target brown spots, they do help even out pigmentation overall. "They remove dead cells to reveal healthier, dewy skin," says New York facialist and skin care guru Christine Chin. And Fusco recommends pairing one of these exfoliating acids with another lightening ingredient. "Once you've started using the lightening product and you know your skin is tolerating it well, try applying it right after exfoliating," she says. "The skin will be more receptive, the ingredients will absorb better, and you'll see more significant results." Fusco suggests using Bliss That's Incredi-Peel, $49.
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Botanicals work for improved texture and tone
There are dozens of plant-derived skin-brightening ingredients out there -- and more will probably be discovered in coming years. Shiseido White Lucent Intensive Spot Targeting Serum, $125, contains a blend of yomogi and angelica root extracts -- Japanese botanicals that have been shown to speed up cell turnover and break down melanin. "The serum helps diminish dark spots, age spots, and acne marks, and even out skin tone," says Shiseido scientist Kiyoshi Sato. Clinical data shows results can be seen in as little as two weeks.
I used to think my freckles were cute -- a splattering across my nose and cheeks that made me look young. They fade in the winter until they're almost undetectable, and then they reappear the first time I go out in the summer sun -- even though I wear SPF 50. While I never wanted to enhance them, I didn't want to erase them, either.
Over the last year, however, I'm starting to feel a little different about my freckles. Maybe it had to do with turning 30. Maybe it was countless dermatologists referring to my freckles as hyperpigmentation -- or worse, age spots. What I used to think of as a sign of youth, I now consider just the opposite. And so I'm constantly trying to figure out how to brighten my skin (and in the process, disguise those spots) by slathering on the latest skin-lightening products. And when I go to the dermatologist, I don't want to talk about breakouts or fine lines -- I just want to know how to get rid of my freckles.
It turns out I'm not alone. According to consumer research, hyperpigmentation has become one of the top skin concerns globally. The "skin lightening" trend started more than 20 years ago in Asia with "whitening" products, but now "brightening" products -- which are essentially the same thing with a less controversial name -- are selling like crazy in the U.S.
"Lasers used to be the only way to really brighten and lighten skin," says New York City dermatologist Francesca Fusco, MD. "But now there are so many over-the-counter topical products that can actually make a difference." The key, she says, is to find an ingredient that works well for your skin and your particular kind of dark spots. We broke down six of the most common brightening ingredients to help you figure out which one you should try.
