What it is: The scientists at Avon and Neostrata were looking for the next miracle molecule -- something that would be even more effective than Alpha Hydroxy Acid and retinol at fighting wrinkles. They used Nobel Prize-winning research on proteins to discover Aminofill 33 (A-F33).
What it does: It repairs the skin and unlocks unused collagen. "Deep wrinkles start to get addressed in the first week of use, which is quite impressive for a topical anti-ager. The visual results of this product are impressive," says New York dermatologist Cheryl Karcher, MD.
"The simplest way to explain how this ingredient works is that it helps the skin behave the way it did naturally when you were younger," says Avon researcher Anthony Gonzalez. "When you're 15 or 16, your skin naturally forms properly -- but that changes as you age. This ingredient brings it back to that place."
What it is: A natural ingredient found in plants that helps speed up cell division.
What it does: It helps the skin hold onto moisture, and it can lighten dark spots and even out texture. It's great for annoying post-breakout red splotches. Massachusetts plastic surgeon Glen Brooks notes that kinetin's benefits for the skin have been well-documented by skin care brand Kinerase.
Try it: In serum form, try Pro+Therapy MD Emergence Serum, $130, which can be used night and day and contains a slew of other high-tech ingredients. (It's also one of my personal favorites -- my skin looks older on days I don't use it. Seriously.)
If you prefer a multi-tasker, you'll love Dr. Lewinn by Kinerase Instant Perfecting BB Cream, $15.97. You get the benefits of Kinetin along with SPF 15, moisture, and color. The coverage is between a tinted moisturizer and a foundation, and it creates a pretty dewy effect.
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Copper
What it is: You're definitely familiar with copper -- it's rolling around in the bottom of your bag right now (pennies, people!). In skin care products, it's generally in the form of copper peptides or copper PCA, which are derived from a type of acid.
What it does: Copper peptides help firm skin and prevent collagen loss. The ingredient also promotes wound healing and helps with tissue repair -- and it works as an antioxidant, says Miami dermatologist Leslie Baumann, MD. Meanwhile, copper PCA boosts the copper levels in skin to fight inflammation.
What it is: Pitera is derived from yeast that is created during the fermentation process of sake. It was first discovered after researchers noticed that Japanese Sake producers' hands are abnormally soft.
What it does: It refines texture and evens out skin tone for a brighter-looking complexion. Case in point: Cate Blanchett's skin. She's used Pitera for more than 10 years, and she's the celebrity spokesperson for SK-II.
Try it: SK-II has the market cornered on Pitera. For maximum concentration, try the new SK-II LXP Ultimate Serum, $265. If you have a special event coming up, you'll love the SK-II Facial Treatment Mask, $90. In Japan, bridesmaids buy the masks for the bride so that she can do one each day for a month (or longer!) leading up to her wedding.
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Stem Cells
What it is: Human stem cells are so special because they have the ability to become any type of cell. They're generally derived from human cells and reproduced in a lab.
What it does: The thought behind using stem cells in skin care is that they can become collagen or elastin -- whatever your skin needs to look younger. As we age, our stem cells don't function as well. By applying the ingredient topically, you can rejuvenate your skin. "Stem cells are signaling molecules that encourage your cells to produce collagen and elastin and stimulate fibroblasts," explains New York dermatologist Elizabeth Hale, MD.
Try it:Life Line Recovery Night Moisture Serum, $190, contains non-embryonic stem cells -- so there's no ethical question about human embryos in your moisturizer. An independent study showed that skin was 73 percent firmer after three months of using the product.
I write about everything from hairstyles to nail art, but my passion is skin care. Call me weird, but nothing gets me jazzed more than wrinkle research and new skin care ingredient breakthroughs. I could look at before and after pictures for days.
Skin care is an amazing field because there's so much science -- and new skin care ingredients are being discovered practically every day. I'm not saying you should give up on retinol, and I think everyone should slather on SPF religiously each morning, but there's also a ton of new skin care products you should try. From serums to BB creams, beauty brands are packing high-tech research into every step of your routine.
My evening ritual can be as many as eight steps (cleanse, exfoliate, tone, three serums, moisturizer, and eye cream) and take me 20 minutes, and I'm not advocating that for everyone. But I'm confident that you can integrate one more product into your regimen -- and I think it should be one of these.
Here are the new skin care products I'm most excited about -- as well as a breakdown of their key ingredients and what makes those ingredients special. This way you'll know what to look for when you're shopping for new products. Which ones are you most excited to try?
