Q: What acne-fighting ingredients should adults use?
A: Some of the ingredients are similar to the ones you may have used in your teen years: do salicylic acid or benzoyl peroxide ring any bells? But King says there are plenty of other beneficial ingredients that can help minimize acne, plus keep skin looking youthful and prevent scaring or discoloration.
To minimize inflammation, look for: licorice, biotin, camphor, tea tree and green tea.
To slow oil production, use: zinc sulfate, tea tree, caffeine and niacinamide.
To help exfoliate and also slow oil production, try: salicylic or glycolic acid, benzoyl peroxide, sulfur or zinc oxide.
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Change your life to change your face
Before we even get into regimens, here's the deal: all the acne-fighting products in the world won't completely solve your problem unless you work on the cause of it -- stress. So do your best to minimize it. Make some time for yourself, try deep breathing or yoga, whatever you can to keep those stress hormones down.
Also, other lifestyle factors like lack of sleep, poor nutrition, dehydration and smoking can have a huge impact on your skin. So getting your eight hours a night and your eight glasses of water a day will be a huge help to your skin. Also, limit your caffeine consumption -- while it keeps you going through the day, it also keeps your body in a stressed-out state. Try eating healthy snacks like nuts and complex carbs to keep your energy levels up instead.
Next: Your acne-fighting skin care regimen
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Step 1: Cleanse correctly
King recommends pre-cleansing with an oil-based cleanser. Sounds weird, but actually, oil attracts oil, so a cleanser like this will draw the oil from your skin and allow for better penetration of your treatments. One to try: Shu Uemura High Performance Balancing Cleansing Oil, $62.
Next, use a cleanser with salicylic acid morning and night. Look for one with tea tree in it as well to help fight inflammation. Try Dermalogica mediBac Clearing Skin Wash, $33.
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Step 2: Exfoliate without hurting your skin
King says that acne-prone skin sheds four times the amount of dead skin cells as regular skin, and that dead skin clogs pores. But, reaching for a harsh scrub can actually make things worse. "Don't use a granular scrub, it can tear the top off a healing pimple and possibly spread bacteria around," King says.
Instead, use a liquid or cream exfoliating mask with hydroxy acids or enzymes, or even salicylic acid, two to three times a week. Try Zia Pumpkin Exfoliating Mask, $19.02.
And, this should go without saying, but no good can come from popping zits, especially the cystic kind common with adults, so please don't do it. King explains that cystic acne is basically an inflamed balloon of sebum, dead skin and bacteria, and if you pop it you're just spreading all that nasty stuff around your skin -- not to mention potentially causing ugly scars as well.
If you're in desperate need to get rid of a zit fast, see a dermatologist. They can perform an extraction or give you a hydrocortisone injection to make the pimple go away fast.
Suffering from adult acne? You are so not alone. Annet King, Director of Training and Development for The International Dermal Institute, says that 54 percent of women over 25 have some acne, and it's most common in women in their 30s. "It's an epidemic in skin care," she says.
So what's causing all this adult acne? In a word: stress. King says that our society is more stressed out than ever before, and all that stress causes our adrenal glands to increase production of androgen hormones, which increase oil production, which causes acne. And when we're under long-term stress (which is common in our busy lives), our hormone levels are constantly raised and acne becomes a near-constant problem. Also, since we're older, our cell-turnover and ability to heal slows down, which means acne can stick around longer than it did when we were teens.
In the next slides, we'll answer all your questions about adult acne, from the differences between teen and adult acne, to the lifestyle and product changes necessary to finally get your adult acne under control. Because let's face it, dealing with acne in your teens is one thing, but no one should have to suffer from acne in their 20s, 30s and 40s, right?
