King recommends pre-cleansing with an oil-based cleanser. Sounds weird, but actually, oil attracts oil, so a cleanser like this will draw the oil from your skin and allow for better penetration of your treatments. One to try: Shu Uemura High Performance Balancing Cleansing Oil, $62.
Next, use a cleanser with salicylic acid morning and night. Look for one with tea tree in it as well to help fight inflammation. Try Dermalogica mediBac Clearing Skin Wash, $33.
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Step 2: Exfoliate without hurting your skin
King says that acne-prone skin sheds four times the amount of dead skin cells as regular skin, and that dead skin clogs pores. But, reaching for a harsh scrub can actually make things worse. "Don't use a granular scrub, it can tear the top off a healing pimple and possibly spread bacteria around," King says.
Instead, use a liquid or cream exfoliating mask with hydroxy acids or enzymes, or even salicylic acid, two to three times a week. Try Zia Pumpkin Exfoliating Mask, $19.02.
And, this should go without saying, but no good can come from popping zits, especially the cystic kind common with adults, so please don't do it. King explains that cystic acne is basically an inflamed balloon of sebum, dead skin and bacteria, and if you pop it you're just spreading all that nasty stuff around your skin -- not to mention potentially causing ugly scars as well.
If you're in desperate need to get rid of a zit fast, see a dermatologist. They can perform an extraction or give you a hydrocortisone injection to make the pimple go away fast.
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Step 4: Moisturize. Yes, you still need to do this
For the rest of your face, use a moisturizer that's right for your skin type. You may need a heavier or oil-based moisturizer if your skin is dry. Try Cetaphil Moisturizing Lotion, $14.99.
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Step 5: Conceal the acne you have the right way
While it's tempting to cover up our blemishes with layers of foundation, concealer and powder, it's better to use a mineral concealer or one with acne-fighting ingredients to cover zits, because some makeup can make the problem worse. Try using Bare Minerals foundation with this concealer brush, $20.
King also says to check your makeup ingredients for Lanolin, which can clog pores, and Isopropyl Myristate (common in powders), which can irritate skin. Mineral oil can prevent skin cells from shedding properly (it creates a film on your face), so check your products for this. Some people are irritated by fragrance in products as well.
Also, don't forget about the ingredients in your hair products. They can irritate your skin, especially if your hairstyle frames your face or you have bangs.
Next: How to know if your routine is actually working
Suffering from adult acne? You are so not alone. Annet King, Director of Training and Development for The International Dermal Institute, says that 54 percent of women over 25 have some acne, and it's most common in women in their 30s. "It's an epidemic in skin care," she says.
So what's causing all this adult acne? In a word: stress. King says that our society is more stressed out than ever before, and all that stress causes our adrenal glands to increase production of androgen hormones, which increase oil production, which causes acne. And when we're under long-term stress (which is common in our busy lives), our hormone levels are constantly raised and acne becomes a near-constant problem. Also, since we're older, our cell-turnover and ability to heal slows down, which means acne can stick around longer than it did when we were teens.
In the next slides, we'll answer all your questions about adult acne, from the differences between teen and adult acne, to the lifestyle and product changes necessary to finally get your adult acne under control. Because let's face it, dealing with acne in your teens is one thing, but no one should have to suffer from acne in their 20s, 30s and 40s, right?
