While it's tempting to cover up our blemishes with layers of foundation, concealer and powder, it's better to use a mineral concealer or one with acne-fighting ingredients to cover zits, because some makeup can make the problem worse. Try using Bare Minerals foundation with this concealer brush, $20.
King also says to check your makeup ingredients for Lanolin, which can clog pores, and Isopropyl Myristate (common in powders), which can irritate skin. Mineral oil can prevent skin cells from shedding properly (it creates a film on your face), so check your products for this. Some people are irritated by fragrance in products as well.
Also, don't forget about the ingredients in your hair products. They can irritate your skin, especially if your hairstyle frames your face or you have bangs.
Next: How to know if your routine is actually working
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How to know if your routine is working
King explains the normal progression for any new skin care routine:
In the first week of treatment, your skin will likely get worse. This is because the products are purging your skin of sebum and bacteria, so don't get discouraged. In the next couple weeks your skin should start to improve and be more manageable. After a month to six weeks you should see a marked improvement in your skin. If you don't see an improvement, you're either using a product that's not effective for your skin, or you're applying too much and irritating your skin.
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What to do if your routine stops working
A sad reality of acne prone skin is that it needs constant adjustment to keep it clear. King explains that skin care is like working out -- eventually you reach a plateau and you need to make adjustments to keep improving. A dermatologist or esthetician can help you adjust your skin for seasonal or hormonal changes, but you can use these tricks to help figure it out yourself:
It's easy to tell if your skin is too oily (and if it is you may want to use a clay mask once or twice a week to absorb extra oil, try Olay Daily Facials Intensives Clay Mask, $8.99), and redness and peeling can be a sign that your skin is sensitive to a product you're using (so you should stop using it or use it less often, depending on how severe your reaction is). Dehydration is trickier, and it happens often in oily skin because of all the drying products we use.
King explains one way to tell if your skin is dehydrated: look in the mirror and make a big grin, then relax your face, if the smile lines are still there then your skin is dry. To fix it, try adding a product with hyaluronic acid or a spritz on toner (try Nude Hydrating Water, $45). Also, drink more water and less caffeine, all of these things will help add moisture, but not oil, to your skin.
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When all else fails ...
King says that if you're suffering from chronic cystic acne that's painful or causing a major problem in your life then you should definitely see a dermatologist. He or she can prescribe products to help, like antibiotics, or birth control along with other oral or topical treatments. Another option is to see an esthetician/facialist who can help set you up with a skin care regimen. True, a doctor's office visit isn't cheap, especially without insurance, but it can make a huge difference in your skin (not to mention save you from buying products that won't work and wasting money).
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Bonus acne-fighting tricks
Don't sabotage your hard work by ignoring these little things that can affect your skin:
Wipe down your phone and cell phone regularly, wash your makeup brushes weekly, and change your pillowcase three times a week -- all of these are breeding grounds for bacteria and all have close contact with your face.
Don't use fabric softener on your pillowcases, many of them contain beef lard, which is not something you want on your face.
Don't wear makeup at the gym or anytime you're sweating a lot. It prevents your skin from detoxifying and suffocates your skin, making acne worse.
Suffering from adult acne? You are so not alone. Annet King, Director of Training and Development for The International Dermal Institute, says that 54 percent of women over 25 have some acne, and it's most common in women in their 30s. "It's an epidemic in skin care," she says.
So what's causing all this adult acne? In a word: stress. King says that our society is more stressed out than ever before, and all that stress causes our adrenal glands to increase production of androgen hormones, which increase oil production, which causes acne. And when we're under long-term stress (which is common in our busy lives), our hormone levels are constantly raised and acne becomes a near-constant problem. Also, since we're older, our cell-turnover and ability to heal slows down, which means acne can stick around longer than it did when we were teens.
In the next slides, we'll answer all your questions about adult acne, from the differences between teen and adult acne, to the lifestyle and product changes necessary to finally get your adult acne under control. Because let's face it, dealing with acne in your teens is one thing, but no one should have to suffer from acne in their 20s, 30s and 40s, right?
