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Industry Secrets: Here's What REALLY Happens Backstage at Makeup Shoots

Spoiler: It's not all glamourous
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Models are wearing far more makeup than you think.
As you pass time on Instagram, waiting in line for your 3 p.m. caffeine pick-me-up, you might double-tap a shot where a model not only has carefully applied makeup but seemingly idealistic skin. The quest for the perfect makeup-free look may feel impossible, but as former advertising account manager at a mass market cosmetic company Elizabeth Blasi explains, don't believe everything you scroll through. Even if a model appears like she's only wearing a smidge of foundation or lipstick, in person, her makeup is heavily exaggerated because shoots are so brightly lit. Without a heavy-handed brush, her features wouldn't be as pronounced or show up on film. "Often, they'll have barely blended contour, intense highlighting and layers of shadow on the lids. While in person, the makeup looks extremely aggressive, the after shot on camera looks like an approachable streetwear look," she says.

Image via Imaxtree

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Makeup artists have to know how to fix every detail—fast.
In addition to understanding every last curve of the face and how to recreate magic day-in and day-out, makeup artist and hairstylist Sophia Porter says the true test of a pro is how quickly they adapt in stressful situations. With early call times and long days, not only are they responsible for every item in their toolkit—the eyeshadows, the brushes, you name it—but they have to react quickly when an image isn't translating in the way the client desired. "You must be extremely attentive to your work by watching and analyzing what's shown on the monitor and know how to fix basically any issue in a jiffy," she says.

One example from celebrity makeup artist Daniel Koye's experience was on the set of a movie, where he and other professionals were tasked with the job of covering the faces and hair of actors in one solid color. The catch, though, is that it needed to be non-permanent and washable—and yet, can be recreated over and over in the same shade. "We mixed tons‐and I mean mean tons—of Manic Panic dye hard gel to create these looks. We had to use different gels to mold the hair and make it look like their hair is completely dyed, several times throughout several days," he shared. And because the application of the particular shots required many takes, his team was always in the process of creating—and recreating—the concoction on repeat, serving as a stretch from the typical job duties.

Image via Imaxtree

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Models aren't always glam from head-to-toe.
With bright colors and happy one-liners, there's a reason the cosmetic section of your local pharmacy is among the most alluring. While a model might appear put together from her blown-out hair to her impressive eyeshadow contouring, Blasi says often times, the upper body is a sharp contrast to the lower. "Most of the time, a model is wearing a several thousand dollar designer top...but wearing sweatpants and comfy sneakers as she sits down to take a long series of photos," she says. So the next time you pull on a button-up in a hurry to prep for a client call you're taking from home and forget to change out of your leggings? Just remind yourself you're mimicking the habits of supermodels.

Image via Imaxtree

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Makeup artists aren't only responsible for makeup.
On the set of a movie, it's not only the skin on an actor's face that's the responsibility of the makeup artist but rather, um, everywhere. This means their all-over, flawless and camera-ready complexion needs to be fluid from their head to their toes — and sometimes, even their bums. As Koye shared about one experience he had on set: "While the actor had a baby face, his behind was a beast. He had to expose his butt to the camera, so I was asked to wax him. It was a crazy experience but hey, it made the shot look amazing," he shared.

Image via Imaxtree

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Makeup artists apply more than just makeup.
Especially over the course of several days using a variety of products and consistently cleansing a model's face, eventually, her skin is bound to dry out. While moisturizer might seem like a no-brainer, Porter explains it can sometimes take too long to seep into the skin, when the shot is needed ASAP. That's when she turns to an ingredient you might have in your kitchen: vegetable glycerine. To pull this off, she mixes a quarter-size serving with a dash of thermal water (her go-to is La Roche Posay) and massage thoroughly. Especially in the coolest, harshest days of winter, she's found this to be a life-saver, both for the model's skin health and her ability to pull off a look.

BY LINDSAY TIGAR | MAR 27, 2018 | SHARES
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