Though hyaluronic acid may sound like something dreamed up in a chemistry lab, it actually occurs naturally in the body. A gooey liquid that keeps your hinges from creaking, it's found in the connective tissues that keep joints lubricated. What does that have to do with your face? This acid has the ability to hold 1,000 times its weight in water, making it extremely moisturizing. It makes skin plumper, more hydrated, and reduces wrinkles.
To get all of those amazing benefits, when adding it to your skin care regimen, be sure to avoid this misstep:
"Do not apply hyaluronic acid over oil," says Dr. Graf. Why? The water-based hyaluronic acid can't penetrate the oil, meaning it can't get to your skin to do its job. If you're putting oils on before your hyaluronic acid, it's just sitting on top of that barrier. Apply your hyaluronic acid product first, and layer any facial oils (like oil-based moisturizers) on top of that. Using an oil-based cleanser before applying hyaluronic acid should be fine, as long as it's not one that you simply wipe off, since those will leave an oily residue behind that the hyaluronic acid can't penetrate.
Our readers give drugstore standby CeraVe Facial Moisturizing Lotion PM top ratings because it contains hyaluronic acid and works for any skin type.
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Chemical Peels + Retinol = Something's Burning
For the same reason you shouldn't be waxing skin that has recently been treated with retinol, you also shouldn't be getting a professional chemical peel while using retinol. While both are great for decreasing the appearance of wrinkles (and retinol has even been shown to be a great weapon in the battle against acne), Dr. Graf says that the combination of the two can cause too much irritation.
Using retinol or Retin-A (the stronger, prescription form of retinol) makes the skin barrier more penetrable, which means the ingredients in a professional-grade chemical peel will get deep into your skin, fast. While you might think that sounds like a good idea, it's actually a recipe for burning and irritation, along with physical reactions like redness, peeling, crusting, swelling and blistering. A too-deep peel can even increase your chances of getting a post-peel infection, especially if you can't resist applying makeup to cover up that persistent redness.
Dr. Graf says that the process of preparing for a peel varies by patient and the type and strength of the chemicals used, so talk to your dermatologist a few weeks before the peel to get an idea of the proper pre-op procedure for your skin.
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Toner + Retinol = A Waste of Money
Most of us have a skin care routine we stick to. Cleanse, tone, treat, and moisturize is a regimen that almost everyone is familiar with. But Dr. Graf says that if you're using a retinol, you can skip one of those steps. Traditionally, toners are used to rebalance the skin after cleansing, but Dr. Graf says that that practice is outdated, since cleansers on the market today are pH balanced. "Toners are from the days when cleansers were not pH balanced," she says."
The benefit that people get from using toners these days are from added ingredients, like salicylic acid for acne, or chamomile for anti-inflammation. Depending on the toner formulation, it can be irritating (if it's meant to treat acne), or just plain unnecessary (if it's meant to exfoliate) when used in combination with retinol. "If you're using retinol, you don't need the addition of toner," says Dr. Graf, who adds that besides being unnecessary, using toner in conjunction with retinol can be irritating if it's formulated with harsh ingredients like alcohol. Retinol evens skin tone and treats hyperpigmentation (the darkening of skin) and acne, which are the same benefits we're hoping to get from daily toner use. Moral of the story? While your face isn't going to burst into flames if you combine these two skin care products, it's not going to be beneficial, either. At best, it does nothing. So, save your money and skip the toner.
Really, who doesn't have "combination" skin? I'm not talking about T-zones or the amount of oil one's skin produces. I'm talking about the battalion of products the average woman needs to combat her myriad of skin problems. When you've got wrinkles, breakouts, age spots and chapped lips at the same time, it's hard not to pile on a slew of products aimed at fighting different skin issues. But according to New York City dermatologist Jeannette Graf, M.D., assistant clinical professor of dermatology at Mount Sinai Medical Center, the concoction of products we layer on our face may not be the best recipe for great skin -- in fact, it could be a recipe for disaster (kind of like the time you blew up the living room with your chemistry set).
We sat down with Dr. Graf to get the insider info on what skin care ingredients we should never mix.