Once your skin is properly cleansed, apply any prescriptions or OTC treatments for acne or wrinkles (or both! Thanks, retinoids) right next to your skin. Kraffert says that you want molecules in prescription skin care to be well absorbed, so they can get deep into your skin. And don't worry about applying wrinkle-fighting retinol during the day. Retinoids are photosensitive (meaning they break down in light), but as long as you wear a sunscreen, Kraffert says your skin -- and the product -- should be protected. (Stay tuned for when to apply your sun protection.)
Photo 3/11
A.M. Step 3: Hydrate With Serum
Think of serum as extra nourishment for your skin. Serums deliver a concentrated dose of hydration and antioxidants that a moisturizer typically can't, explains Kraffert. Look for one with hydration-delivering humectants, like glycerin, aloe vera juice or botanical extracts. These ingredients pull moisture into your skin, to keep it hydrated and happy.
To lock in moisture, use a facial oil on top of a hydrating serum, says Kraffert. Engelman suggests sticking with light oils, like argan and rosehip seed oil, which have antibacterial properties that will decrease breakouts and inflammation. Heavy oils that are solid at room temperature (we're looking at you, coconut) will simply sit on top of the skin and, says Engelman, are much more likely to clog your pores. If you're using a heavy oil, apply it last.
Photo 5/11
A.M. Step 5: Moisturize & Protect Against the Sun
Daytime calls for a light lotion; use a moisturizer/sunscreen combo such as Amarté Ultra Veil Sunscreen to lighten your product load. According to Kraffert, the UV-blocking properties of sunscreen will prevent other ingredients from reaching your skin, so SPF should always come last. "Sunscreen active ingredients are meant to not be absorbed," says Kraffert. If you're using a separate moisturizer and sunscreen, use the moisturizer first, then layer the sunscreen on top of it.
Photo 6/11
P.M. Step 1: Remove & Cleanse
Straight from the desk of the skin care gods: Thou must remove thy makeup before slumber. Start with an oil-based makeup remover (check these reader-approved options for top-rated removers) for your eyes, which should wipe that heavy eyeliner right off. For heavy makeup, use a wipe to remove the bulk of the day's camouflage. However, don't stop there. Kraffert says that wipes are great in a pinch, but they don't usually remove everything -- or if they do, they leave a residue behind. "Without water to help remove [the makeup], it's a fail," he says. Follow up with a cleanser (the same gentle exfoliator used in the morning works) to get the rest of the job done.
What comes first? Forget the chicken and the egg, we're talking about our skin care products, like serum, moisturizer, face oil and sunscreen. A cabinet full of products to keep you blemish-, wrinkle- and sun spot-free means nothing if you don't know in what order to apply them. Instead of slapping them on and crossing our fingers, we conducted a skin care nerd-out session with board certified dermatologists Dendy Engelman, M.D., and Craig Kraffert, M.D., who is also the president of Korean skincare line Amarté. We grilled them to find out which products should be applied first, last and everywhere in between so that they can perform exactly as they're supposed to. Here, these derms school us in the exhaustive process of layering skin care.
