According to Pelusi, reddish tones are easier to achieve in brunettes because dark hair will "pull red as it lifts," which will work to your advantage. You want to find the sweet spot in which your highlights don't come out "too red or too orange" and lightening your brown strands to a red or red/orange while it's in the foils is key. In fact, it's better for your hair and gives your colorist a better base to work with if the hair is not overbleached.
If you have natural, dark hair or have previously colored it, your stylist is going to need to bleach it to achieve the cinnamon and chestnut hues. Tints and colors will not be visible unless the strands are pre-lightened. The good news is, because this look is not high-contrast, hair does not need to be over-bleached. To achieve this look, Pelusi recommends using a strong bleach and a low-level developer. He is adamant that it is "most important to maintain the quality and integrity of your hair when highlighting."
Pelusi says it's best for the hair (and the color) to leave some red in the highlights before toning them. Cinnamon and chestnut hues are a mix of red, gold and brown, so if the bleached pieces already have red in them, Pelusi likes to use "warm, cinnamon brunette or soft, golden brunette" tones to achieve his client's ideal shade. Again, to protect the health and integrity of the hair, Pelusi prefers using demicolor (semi-permanent color with little to no ammonia). These types of dyes only deposit color and prevent further stripping of the hair that has already been bleached.
Don't wash your freshly colored locks for 72 hours
We know it's hard, but the color payoff is so worth it. Red hues fade quickly, so resist the urge to shampoo for just three days — we know you can do it! Color-safe dry shampoo will be your best friend during this time.
Again, because these colors fade quickly, Pelusi recommends his clients use a sulfate-free, color-protecting shampoo and conditioner like one from his Collagen Color Guard line of hair products. He suggests you ask your own stylist/colorist for their recommendations to "best maintain the color and health of your hair." You'll want to avoid washing your hair every day, instead, opt for washing on the second or third day to further prevent fading.
