Retinoids, a class of vitamin-A derivatives, easily get the gold star for their tried-and-true anti-aging benefits. "Topical retinoids have the strongest and best evidence for slowing down collagen breakdown in many different ways," says MacGregor. And as if that weren't enough, they also stimulate the production of new collagen, she adds. Since the potent ingredient does have some potentially irritating side-effects (redness, dryness, flaking), be sure to apply only a pea-size drop of any retinoid-containing product on your entire face. You can also try using it every other night to help minimize irritation. FYI, the "night" part is important; the sun inactivates the ingredient, so reserve these products solely for your evening regimen.
"Peptides are the individual building blocks that link up to create protein," explains MacGregor. As you recall, collagen is a protein, so, in theory, more peptides equal more collagen. There's no shortage of different types of peptides out there, all of which do have varying degrees of efficacy, MacGregor notes. Still, the nice thing is that they're relatively well-tolerated in almost all skin types, and, unlike retinoids, are safe to use during pregnancy (though of course check with your doctor).
You probably pop it whenever you feel a cold coming on, but turns out vitamin C can ward off wrinkles, too. The major multi-tasker works to protect collagen a few different ways: "Not only is it a co-factor for the enzymes that directly produce new collagen, it also helps block UV-induced collagen breakdown," says MacGregor. Plus, it's a powerful antioxidant that counteracts free radical-induced inflammation, which is known to damage collagen, she adds. Get in the habit of layering a vitamin C-based serum under your sunscreen every morning.
Our current fave: Image Skincare Vital C Hydrating Anti-Aging Serum, $60. And don't just apply your vitamin C, eat it, too! Studies have shown that ingesting the vitamin also has collagen-boosting effects, so load up on fruits and veggies like kiwi, red peppers, and Brussels sprouts.
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Antioxidant + Sunscreen
As the saying goes, the best offense is a good defense. OBVIOUSLY you should be wearing sunscreen daily (a broad-spectrum with at least SPF 30, please) to help shield skin from the damaging UV rays that speed up collagen breakdown. But even if your sunscreen application is textbook perfection, the truth is your skin is still going to be exposed to some amount of sun and pollutants, which will create free radicals. That's when antioxidants come in, acting like little Pac-Men to scavenger up these skin-damaging bad boys.
When thinking beyond topical products, getting zapped is one of the best in-office bets. "Lasers generate microscopic, controlled wounds in the dermal layer of the skin. The skin then responds to this trauma by making new, stronger collagen that leaves the skin thicker, firmer, and smoother," explains MacGregor. We get it, words like "wounds" and "trauma" sound scary, but keep in mind that we're talking about microscopic injury that doesn't cause any kind of lasting damage and that you can't even see. Your skin may look slightly pink for a little while after a laser treatment, but it's really more about what's happening underneath the surface of the skin where all of that new collagen is being stimulated.
