King says that growth factors have been of particular interest for topical products because of their ability to promote wound and ulcer healing when applied topically. One study highlighted how a serum containing recombinant EGF showed significant improvement to brown spots, skin texture, pore size, red spots and wrinkles, when applied twice daily over a three-month period. (Schouest JM, Liu TK, May RL. J Drugs Dermatol. 2012; 11(5): 613-620.)

Their wound-healing ability makes EGF products perfect after laser treatments, according to Vargas. The laser is meant to stimulate collagen production. This collagen boost combined with wound-healing EGF has a transformative effect. Similarly, Vargas adds that growth factors are helpful for repairing sun damage and skin mutations from environmental stress.

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The experts agree that growth factors are suitable for all skin types, although King explains they are targeted for aging skin.

Frank adds that EGFs don't cause sun sensitivity. (Of course, that's not a free pass to skip sunscreen!) Also, unlike some ingredients, Frank says that growth factors can be used in conjunction with other antioxidant or retinoid products to improve skin quality, thickness and health.

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EGF is one of the newer ingredients in skin care which means that it hasn't been as extensively researched as others. "They are less data-proven compared to sun protection, retinoids, alpha hydroxy acids and antioxidants," says King. "But there is definitely potential. And they are less irritating compared to retinoids and alpha hydroxy acids."

Frank continues that there are some studies, but growth factors are not considered as potent as some other anti-aging superstars, like retinoids. "There are some that question their effect at all given that the molecules are considered too large to penetrate deep into skin," says Frank. He also notes that the main concern is that growth factors could speed up production of skin cancer, but "it is unproven."

Take note: Vargas says that EGF has had a lot of very misleading and irresponsible marketing over the last few years. However, that doesn't discount the ingredient's performance. "It's highly effective and very exciting to me," she says.

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The Georgia Louise Hollywood EGF Serum, $160, is used during her famous facial of the same name. It helps minimize the appearance of pores and softens fine lines and wrinkles. Besides EGF, the clean, ionizable formula also has copper to calm skin and hyaluronic acid for plumping.

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Want plant-derived EGF? The Joanna Vargas Twilight Face Mask , $75, is an epidermal growth factor sheet mask made from 40 different plant and vegetable stem cells. Vargas thinks it's "the most healing thing I've put on the face," making it excellent post-sun or post-peel.

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