Where you apply your highlighter is just as important as the formula you choose. Makeup artist Nico Guilis, who has worked with Dree Hemingway and Bar Rafaeli, says that it's all about achieving a "controlled glow." The obvious place to highlight is on your cheekbones to make them pop (which is a must for glowing skin), but Scantlin loves to place highlighter down the nose and on the tip. "It creates a defined nose and brings attention to the rest of your face," she says. She also applies it above the lip to make the mouth look more "pouty." Placing a little highlighter above and below your brows will also help make you look more awake and radiant.
If everyone else's "winter" skin tone is your natural shade of pale, opt for a peachy highlighter, says Barose. Anything darker could be too harsh against your skin tone. Scantlin also recommends using a lighter luminizer with a bit of a white base to illuminate skin.
"If you are a medium skin tone, go a little more ivory in color," Scantlin says. "This way it won't wash you out." Choose a highlighter with a golden sheen if your skin is a darker medium shade.
On darker skin, color shows up much more saturated, which can work against you when highlighting, says Guilis. Steer clear of white or frosty highlighters because they give darker skin tones a gray, ashy appearance, says Scantlin. Opt for red-based products (think: coppery bronze) and golden highlighters instead.
With the matte trend going strong, sometimes even a little glimmer can seem OTT. Choose a concealer about two shades lighter than your skin tone and apply it over the areas you would apply a shimmer, and then balance it out by applying a foundation two shades darker than your skin tone right under your cheekbone and blending. "This way you have lightened the area without shimmer, and it's just as beautiful," says Scantlin. Another easy way to get glowing sans sparkle? Use a tinted moisturizer, which adds luminosity without the shimmer, says Barose. He also recommends avoiding powder on the bridge of your nose or the top of your cheekbones to let your natural glow show.