Processing Times Vary
Each head of hair reacts differently. According to Joico guest artist Drea Lecher, timing depends on the client's hair texture, if they had any previous color services and the kind of wave they want. Processing times can go from as little as three minutes up to 20. To prevent hair from processing too far, Lecher says it's important that strands are tested every three to five minutes, especially if hair was previously colored.
Rizzo agrees and says timing also varies depending on how porous hair is. "When hair is porous, it absorbs faster, meaning your hair follicles are open [to] taking in products faster than if your hair wasn't porous," she says.
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Hair Colors Need to Be Planned Accordingly
If you are dead set on having color and a perm, beware. Creative director of Inanch London Inanch Emir says that if color or bleach was previously applied, it will be lifted during a perm process. Perms work best on hair with no prior chemical services. Lawrence Wesley, colorist at Antonio Prieto Salon, recommends waiting two to four weeks after color to get a perm.
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It's Not a True Wash-and-Go Style
Do you imagine hopping in the shower every day and having instant, springy, perm-induced curls? Not so fast. Lecher says this is one of the biggest myths about getting a perm. Just like when your hair was straight, you'll need to use hair products and styling tools to get the look you want.
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You Need to Wait to Shampoo After Treatments
Be aware that if you're a dedicated wash-your-hair-every-day person you need to hold off washing it for three days after getting a perm, especially if curls are tight. Perming is a science and shampooing too early can hinder the texture and the longevity of the chemical treatment, Lecher says. Rizzo adds that perms need 28 hours after the process just to "neutralize."
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Perms Require Maintenance
Be prepared to book touch-ups about every 8 to 12 weeks. O'Sullivan says that those with longer hair might be able to go longer between touch-ups, while those with shorter hair will likely need a refresher at around three months. The three-month mark is also when Lecher finds herself "treating problem-solution texture or very soft waves and beachy texture."
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