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Why Are More Black Women Going Bald?

Dermatologists say irreparable hair loss affects black women more than any other ethnicity. Here's how to get to the root of the problem
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The Cause: Androgenic Alopecia
Hate to break it to you, but hair loss could just be in your blood. Yep, one of the most common causes of hair loss in black women (and women in general) is simply genetics. "If you're suffering from hair loss, just look back at your family tree and you'll most likely find the same story," says Leonard. The gene for hair loss can be inherited from either of your parents.

How can you tell if genes are at play? In women, genetic hair loss (also affectionately referred to as female pattern baldness) is characterized by an overall thinning rather than that familiar receding hairline we see in men. Unfortunately, there's nothing you can do to prevent this type of hair loss -- we don't choose our family, after all -- but there are ways to get some of your lost hair back.

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The Fix: Get It Back
According to Leonard, there are two medically sound and scientifically proven treatments out there for female pattern baldness: Rogaine foam and low-level laser therapy, like the Capillus LaserCap.

The third and trickiest option is hair restoration surgery, which Leonard says can have great results. Unfortunately, thanks to good ol' logistics, only about 2 to 5 percent of women are candidates for the procedure. During hair transplant surgery, tiny pieces of skin and hair follicles are surgically removed from the back and along the sides of the head to areas of thinness. But most women have thinning all over the head, including the sides and the back -- the main donor sites for the surgery.

But all hope isn't lost. If you suffer from hair loss due to traction alopecia (more on that next), chemical or physical burns or scarring from accidents or incisions, you may be one of those few women eligible for hair restoration surgery. Your best bet is to find a member of the International Society of Hair Restoration Surgery and get a proper diagnosis before you start clearing your schedule.

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The Cause: Traction Alopecia
Dermatologists see all types of hair loss, but hair stylists tend to see one in particular: traction alopecia, hair loss caused by pulling and tugging. "Bad weave jobs, too-tight braids and twists, tugging extensions ... long-term use of these styles can cause scarring of the scalp, damaged hair follicles and even mold, all of which can lead to permanent hair loss," says Ngozi Opara, a natural hairstylist and the founder of Heat Free Hair.

Hopefully, you haven't seen mold (mold!) growing on your scalp, but you have seen traction alopecia before. It affects the entire hairline and above the ears -- the areas you see balding in paparazzi shots of celebs, like Naomi Campbell, who have worn extensions and weaves for most of their careers.

According to celebrity hairstylist Ursula Stephens, the growing popularity of lacefront wigs, worn by celebrities like Beyoncé and Moesha's BFF, is also causing women to abuse them. "Women are wearing them for long periods of time and removing them incorrectly," she says. "And once you start wearing them, it's hard to stop because it becomes a necessity to cover up the hair loss it's causing."

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The Fix: Remember Your Real Hair
People say pain is beauty, but not in this case. If a tight hairstyle leaves you with headaches or soreness, especially after a few days, you may be setting yourself up for red bumps or flaking, early signs of traction alopecia. If you want to disguise already-existing hair loss or damage, protective styles like wigs that don't require harsh glue are a great route. Just don't forget about your real hair. "If you don't continue to condition, trim and remove these styles in a timely manner, the health of your hair and scalp will be compromised," says Stephens. "It's as simple as that."

Follow Stephens' tips for healthier hair:

• Moisturize before you get braids and avoid braiding very small pieces of hair.
• Don't wear weaves or braids for longer than three to four weeks.
• Shampoo and condition your hair regularly. Wash and condition your extensions, your scalp and your natural hair underneath.
• Make sure both your natural hair and your extension tracks dry completely after washing. Leaving your hair wet or damp underneath may cause fungal infections.
• Regularly moisturize your hair underneath your weave.
• Take some time off in between braids and weaves to give your hair and scalp a break.

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The Cause: Traumatic Alopecia
If your hair used to touch the top of your shoulders but now only reaches your ears -- and has stayed at that length for what seems like forever -- you may have traumatic alopecia, aka dreaded hair breakage. The good news is it's the easiest type of alopecia to identify and to treat -- if you're willing to rethink your styling routine.

What contributes to breakage? Mainly, you! Chemicals like relaxers and dyes; shampoos with sulfates and parabens; excessive heat from styling tools; and friction from rubber bands and excessive brushing and combing. Chances are you're doing most, if not all, of these things, and curly African American hair is even more susceptible to damage.

BY ERICA SMITH | JUN 11, 2014 | SHARES
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