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Why Are More Black Women Going Bald?

Dermatologists say irreparable hair loss affects black women more than any other ethnicity. Here's how to get to the root of the problem
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The Cause: Traction Alopecia
Dermatologists see all types of hair loss, but hair stylists tend to see one in particular: traction alopecia, hair loss caused by pulling and tugging. "Bad weave jobs, too-tight braids and twists, tugging extensions ... long-term use of these styles can cause scarring of the scalp, damaged hair follicles and even mold, all of which can lead to permanent hair loss," says Ngozi Opara, a natural hairstylist and the founder of Heat Free Hair.

Hopefully, you haven't seen mold (mold!) growing on your scalp, but you have seen traction alopecia before. It affects the entire hairline and above the ears -- the areas you see balding in paparazzi shots of celebs, like Naomi Campbell, who have worn extensions and weaves for most of their careers.

According to celebrity hairstylist Ursula Stephens, the growing popularity of lacefront wigs, worn by celebrities like Beyoncé and Moesha's BFF, is also causing women to abuse them. "Women are wearing them for long periods of time and removing them incorrectly," she says. "And once you start wearing them, it's hard to stop because it becomes a necessity to cover up the hair loss it's causing."

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The Fix: Remember Your Real Hair
People say pain is beauty, but not in this case. If a tight hairstyle leaves you with headaches or soreness, especially after a few days, you may be setting yourself up for red bumps or flaking, early signs of traction alopecia. If you want to disguise already-existing hair loss or damage, protective styles like wigs that don't require harsh glue are a great route. Just don't forget about your real hair. "If you don't continue to condition, trim and remove these styles in a timely manner, the health of your hair and scalp will be compromised," says Stephens. "It's as simple as that."

Follow Stephens' tips for healthier hair:

• Moisturize before you get braids and avoid braiding very small pieces of hair.
• Don't wear weaves or braids for longer than three to four weeks.
• Shampoo and condition your hair regularly. Wash and condition your extensions, your scalp and your natural hair underneath.
• Make sure both your natural hair and your extension tracks dry completely after washing. Leaving your hair wet or damp underneath may cause fungal infections.
• Regularly moisturize your hair underneath your weave.
• Take some time off in between braids and weaves to give your hair and scalp a break.

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The Cause: Traumatic Alopecia
If your hair used to touch the top of your shoulders but now only reaches your ears -- and has stayed at that length for what seems like forever -- you may have traumatic alopecia, aka dreaded hair breakage. The good news is it's the easiest type of alopecia to identify and to treat -- if you're willing to rethink your styling routine.

What contributes to breakage? Mainly, you! Chemicals like relaxers and dyes; shampoos with sulfates and parabens; excessive heat from styling tools; and friction from rubber bands and excessive brushing and combing. Chances are you're doing most, if not all, of these things, and curly African American hair is even more susceptible to damage.

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The Fix: Be a Smarter Stylist
It's time to put some of that good, old-fashioned self-control to use. "Hydrate! Hydrate! Hydrate!" says Opara. "Healthy hair starts with a healthy scalp, so don't ban shampooing altogether, condition regularly, and steer clear of harsh sulfates, parabens and phlalates."

Products aside, if you're a twirler, cut it out. "You'd be surprised how much breakage we cause on our own, just by playing around with our hair and manipulating it too much," says Opara. Protect your ends by putting more buns in your daily style rotation (here are a few to get you started), and never comb your hair when it's product-free.

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The Cause: Any of These
While these four types of alopecia are the main offenders when it comes to hair loss among black women, your diet could also be a factor. Here are 10 other reasons your hair may be thinning, regardless of your ethnicity.

BY ERICA SMITH | JUN 11, 2014 | SHARES
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