Experts agree that technique is key. If you don't know how to achieve your desired look, you might be causing damage to your strands in the process. "Basic mistakes are very common, especially when it comes to hot tools, because curling and crimping your own hair requires looking in the mirror, which can throw off your entire perception," explains Lee Rittiner, global hairstylist and brand architect of TOTALEE.
One example of a basic mistake he sees many people make with their hot irons is curling hair in the wrong direction, which can be dangerous and look unnatural. "To be safe, and to not get too close to the face or neck, curl away from the face winding the hair down and around the iron," he says. "The barrel should be facing downward and you should wrap your hair like a ribbon winding around it."
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Mistake No. 3: Not using a heat protectant
While hairstylists swear by heat protectants, they often find that their clients neglect to use them. "It's very important to have a layer of protection on your hair so that, if it gets too hot, it's the product burning off, not your hair," says Stephanie Brown, Master Hair Colorist at Nunzio Saviano Salon in Manhattan. Heat protectants are also typically formulated with nourishing ingredients that leave strands softer and more smooth. A few of her favorites include Color Wow Speed Dry Blow Dry Spray, $24, GHD Heat Protect Spray, $22, and Amika Blockade Heat Defense Serum, $25. "If you are restyling you can use heat protectant products that'll help restyle, like Kristin Ess's The One Signature Hair Water, $10," she adds.
Mistake No. 4: Pressing too hard or winding too tight
If you clamp the hair too tightly inside the hot tool, you'll be left with what is known as demarcation lines in the hair. Not only is this not a good look (unless you're going for an awkward crimp), but it will also leave your hair damaged. "Often people try to fix these lines by going over the hair again with the hot tool, causing even more damage," explains Anita Sun, hairstylist at Eliut Salon in New York City. "It's impossible to fix these demarcation lines unless you re-wet it and dry it again to remove the crease." In other words, this is a tedious mistake to correct.
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Mistake No. 5: Holding the iron on a section for too long
Let the infamous YouTube video of the girl who burns her hair off with a curling iron be a lesson: Don't make the same mistake she did. Instead, hold curling irons on the hair for no longer than 8-10 seconds to ensure that you're yielding results while causing minimal breakage. With a flat iron, do not let it rest anywhere on the hair — keep the iron moving along, says Brown. She sees this mistake all-too-often with clients and friends, and says that it's a sure way to leave your strands broken and sparse.
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Mistake No. 6: Not spending the money for quality tools
Most hairstylists agree that salon-quality tools are worth the investment, even though they come at a higher price than drugstore brands. "Whether it is the quality of the materials or the technology, you should feel confident knowing that your hair is being taken care of to the most efficient degree," says Laurie Heaps, LA-based celebrity hairstylist. She recommends investing in titanium irons, as they heat quickly and more evenly and retain the heat better, which allows for faster styling and fewer passes. Biosilk has a wonderful line of titanium straightening and curling irons," she adds.
