If you want to learn how to shape eyebrows like a pro, memorize this tip: Whatever happens, don't choose a shade that exactly matches your brow hair. "People with dark brown hair should not use black or dark brown powder to fill in eyebrows," says Van Jones. "They should use caramels or dark blondes." If you're using pencil instead of powder, which applies more harshly, you might need to go even lighter.

By contrast, blondes should choose shades that match the base of their hair color, not their highlights, to prevent looking washed out.

You also want to take your skin tone into consideration. "For women with darker skin tones, the brown has to have some red in it," says Van Jones. "Look for chocolatey colors with some warmth." For girls with dark hair and lighter skin, try Zoey Van Jones Brow Studio Brow Shadow Duo in Sandy, $22, which contains light taupe colors.

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If you're committed to learn how to do your eyebrows the right way, don't miss this step. Before you start filling in your eyebrows, blend concealer or a subtle highlight underneath and on top of each brow. "This gives the product something to stick to," says Van Jones. "And it defines the brows, opening the eye area up."

Try Milani Brow & Eye Highlighters, $6.99, or Sephora Collection Brow Enhancer, $12. In a pinch, you can use your regular under eye concealer, says Van Jones.

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Now it's time to fill in your eyebrows. First, use a small, angled eyebrow brush (like Make Up For Ever 270 Angled Eyebrow Brush, $21) to apply the darker shade of product on the under side of your brows. "The best place to start is under the arch," says Van Jones.

Then, continue filling in outward toward the tail. "Most people's brows aren't thick enough at the tail," Van Jones explains. "But this is the part of the brows that frames the eyes — it's the most important."

You may need to lower your arch — the shape should be angled and rectangular, not rounded. "If the arch is too high, it makes you look pissed off — and nobody wants angry eyebrows," says Van Jones.

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Once the arch and tail are filled in, use your lighter brow color to enhance the top of the brow.

"The analogy I use is lip liner," says Van Jones. "You want to focus on that outside edge and less on the middle of the brow. That gives you a more natural look and makes the brows seem bigger."

The reason for two different shades? "That's the way light naturally falls," says Van Jones. "Lighter on top and darker underneath."

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Like many people, one of my brows starts further from the bridge of my nose than the other, and I need to fill it in to match. "That part is the hardest to fill in," says Van Jones. "Use the lighter color of shadow and turn the brush sideways so it's perpendicular to the brow." The line should go up and down, along the bridge of your nose.

And you want to be sure you're starting it in the right place. "It should line up with the middle of the nostril," explains Van Jones. "Not the outside of the nostril — that's too far apart."

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