Trop says she likes to start on the eyes first for two reasons: First, to let the skin prep products fully absorb, and also in case there's any eyeshadow fallout that can be cleaned up, without having to re-do foundation and concealer. "However, if my client is looking in the mirror throughout the appointment, I will apply makeup to the skin before applying the eye makeup as it can be uncomfortable for her to stare at what she perceives to be her dark under eye circles and other blemishes throughout her appointment, she adds. "After all, makeup is meant to uplift and empower those who wear it!"
"For the eyes, I start with an eye shadow primer on the lid, such as M.A.C. Paint Pot, to prevent the skin's natural oils from disrupting the wear of the makeup. Then I work with my client to select the right eye shadow color palette," says Trop.
Trop will switch up the application and placement depending on the client and their eye shape. "I may start with the crease color to act as a guide for how I want the eye shape to look, then I will move on to the color we selected for the outer corner, followed by the lid color," she says. "I then apply eyeliner, which I may or may not buff out with more shadow depending on how soft I want the look to be."
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Step 3: Now do I apply the foundation?
Yes, well, after you've used a primer or moisturizer, according to Trop. "I take a look at the skin to see if a primer is needed, and if so, where. I love Benefit The Porefessional Face Primer to conceal larger pores, particularly in the t-zone, and Make Up For Ever Step 1 Skin Equalizer for more oily skin, again, in the t-zone," says Trop. "However, I typically rely on moisturizers as opposed to hydrating primers if the skin feels dry or dehydrated."
She says she then applies foundation to the face and concealer where needed.
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Step 4: Cream or powder?
After applying foundation and concealer, Trop adds contour. Though she's careful to point out that order is key: If she used a cream or liquid foundation, she'll follow up with a cream contour followed by a cream blush, topped off by a translucent power. If she's using a powder formula, she'll go straight to a translucent powder followed by powder contour and blush.
"You don't want to layer creams or liquids on top of powders as it will create texture as opposed to a seamless surface, so I typically start with liquids and creams and end with powder," she explains.
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Step 5: Highlighter
"As a last step on the complexion, I will add a slight highlight to the high points of the face. I like Charlotte Tilbury Filmstar Bronze & Glow for a highlight," says Trop. "The high points of the face typically include the cheekbones, the eyebrow bone, the cupid's bow, the center of the forehead and the chin. I typically don't add a shimmer highlight to the nose, as I like to keep it as natural-looking as possible."
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Step 6: Brows
Trop likes to leave the brows and lashes bare until close to the end to avoid as little rework as possible. Foundation or powder could ruin those perfect brows or lashes if you do them first.
Trop's approach to brows? She'll start "with either a powder, pencil, or both" and will "finish with brow gel to keep them in place." Alternatively, for "a very natural look," she'll "just use brow gel."
