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African American Makeup Tips From the Pros

What are the best foundations? The hottest lipstick shades? Here's your handy hot list
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Makeup Colors That Pop (and Four to Avoid)
No one can pull off rich or ultra-bright makeup tones like black women can. That orange lip color that ruled the spring collection fashion shows? You own that look. Orchid purple, aka the Pantone Color of the Year? That's all you, too.

"In general, always go with rich colors," says makeup artist Nick Barose, whose clients have included starlets Lupita Nyong'o and Gabrielle Union. "For lighter skin, opt for deep orange, salmon. On deeper, darker skin, go with true red, berries." Makeup guru Elaina Badro, who has worked with actress China Anne McClain and singer Brian McKnight, also loves a deep red lip. "Berry-toned lipsticks are great for cooler undertones on dark skin," she says. "When choosing a red for darker skin with warm undertones, go with a burgundy wine hue." Mills likes purple, gold and chocolate colors on black skin, no matter what your undertone.

Shades that these artists vetoed? Silver, gray and white. These colors "can make the wearer look ashy," says Mills. Badro agrees. "Frosty whites or creams on dark skin... will appear a bit gray." Mills also avoids using orange-y reds on her black clients. "Tomato reds are tricky," she says.

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Amp up the Eyes (and Don't Forget the Power Brow)
Just as black women can easily wear outrageous, bright colors, bold eye makeup looks are simply fabulous.

Mills encourages black women to experiment with false lashes and the thick brow trend. "Filled-in brows ... frame the eyes," she explains. "Some women of color tend to have sparser eyebrows, so I use a mixture of pencil, liner and brow powder." If you're nervous about your brow shape looking unnatural, Mills suggests using a brow stencil as a guide.

Makeup artist Erica Bishop suggests trying a classic cat-eye using a liner in a bright, trendy color. "Variations like a bronze cat eye or deep purples look great on African American skin," she says.

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Don't Be Afraid to Wear a Lot...
When it comes to black women and makeup, the cliché "less is more" doesn't necessarily apply. "African American skin can take makeup," Mills insists. "Lupita Nyong'o, Michelle Obama, Toni Braxton -- all of these women wear makeup, and a lot of it."

That's not to say you should aspire to "showgirl chic" when you're putting on your face. But you can get away with wearing heavy makeup and still look "fresh, stylized and clean," Mills says. For instance, when it comes to base, Mills likes a "more substantial foundation" against dark skin. "Heavier works better -- [like] cream sticks." If your skin is particularly oily, she suggests using a mineral foundation or primer and powder.

Mills says that learning how to contour and highlight your face makes a particular impact on darker complexions. "Highlighting ... really pops features and makes eyes stand out so beautifully."

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...But Go Easy on Shimmer
Mills says that warm metallics like bronze are stunning against black skin. Shimmery or metallic eye shadow or liner is a fool-proof way to wear the trend. For staying power and extra-vivid color that won't disappear into dark skin, tap a powder shadow over a cream shadow in the same shade.

"A shimmery or dewy highlight across the cheekbone is beautiful on dark skin," says Badro. "Just stay away from too much shimmer if there is texture on the skin." The contrast of light-reflecting pigment on dark skin makes rough or uneven texture very obvious.

Barose steers clear of shimmer altogether. "Anything dewy or luminous will look oily," he says. "I always go with matte, because it'll still have that sheen anyway [if] skin is dark."

BY KATIE MCCARTHY | MAR 3, 2014 | SHARES
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