There are two benefits according to Ciraldo: "One: creation of channels (microscopic tube-like openings) at the skin surface to enhance the penetration of skin care products; and two: micro wounding caused by this procedure stimulates healing to increase collagen production and benefit depressed acne scars and lines and wrinkles."

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Ciraldo says there are two options if you're looking online: a hand roller or an electrical or battery run stamping device.

"In most cases, it's wise to start with a simple handheld roller device with needles on the roller," she says. She suggests 0.25 millimeters as a good starting point. "For more aggressive treatment, there are battery operated or electric devices that work like a stamper so that the needles penetrate several times in the same area. This kind of device will be more effective for deeper lines and wrinkles as well as indented acne scars," says the dermatologist.

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"Longer needle lengths will produce more collagen than shorter needles," says Ciraldo. "The shorter needles work well for enhanced penetration and a short-lived increase in skin vibrancy and firmer appearance."

But she also warns that there is a chance of scarring with a longer needle length used for too long or too frequently in one area.

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Ciraldo says that most people microneedle once a week. "Frequency of this treatment will depend on your skin's reaction as well as your rationale for using the microneedling," she says.

Do not microneedle skin that is already red, sensitive, or swollen, though: "It is also important to realize that you do not want to see any bruising from this procedure. If you have tiny bleeding points or bruising the device is either too strong for you or you have used it too aggressively."

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You'll need to be more aware of what not to use with your dermaroller. "You typically would not use any acid-based or retinol products immediately after microneedling unless directed to do so by a skin care specialist who knows your skin," says Ciraldo. "This is because the enhanced penetration of aggressive skin care products after microneedling can result in a severe irritation at the skin surface."

But, non acid-based products are fine to use — in fact, they'll penetrate your skin more deeply and be more effective if you apply them immediately after microneedling and the next few days after. Using a great serum is especially beneficial.

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