Hair Care and Cuts: The Rules, Beauty on the Front Lines

Photo 4/12

Reading through the AR 6701-1 section on hair is like paging through Rihanna's worst nightmare. It starts off innocent enough: "Many hairstyles are acceptable, as long as they are neat and conservative," Frost explains. But for hair chameleons it gets worse. "Trendy," "extreme," or "eccentric" styles, like the half-shaved head look we can't seem to escape, or designs shaved in the head a la Cassie, are not authorized. If soldiers use dyes, tints, or bleaches, they must choose those that result in natural hair colors -- in other words, anything that isn't purple, blue, pink, green, orange, bright (fire-engine) red and fluorescent or neon.

Photo 5/12

While the rules are set in place for uniformity, servicewomen still have ways to switch up their style. "I did color my hair for two years in the Army," says Frost. "Right out of college, I colored my hair red and went extremely sun-kissed blonde after returning from my last trip in Afghanistan." Baer relies on a versatile cut so she can adhere to the uniform code while keeping her style options open. "I keep my hair long, with longer layers, so when I'm off duty, I can wear it down and style it, and when I'm in uniform, it's still long enough for me to just twist it up and secure it."

Being deployed means getting creative to fill the void of regular salon appointments. To tide over her craving for blowouts, Baer packs products like Biosilk Silk Therapy, $13.99, and Aveda's Brilliant Emollient Finishing Gloss, $28, ("to keep the frizz around my bun under control!") She also special orders her favorites, like Pureology's Serious Colour Care Shampoo & Conditioner, when she is away for longer periods of time. The one thing Peterson misses? "My flat iron -- which I never bring. No reason to. But I miss it, nonetheless."

Photo 6/12

The edit team at Total Beauty will be the first to tell you of the endless possibilities we have when it comes to hairstyles. Parts, braids, textures, curls, waves, and the list goes on and on. Our servicewomen can have 15-hour days, on alert, so naturally there isn't time to fuss over Pinterest tutorials and complicated updos. The Code is specific on hair regulations from length down to soldiers' parts. Extensions, weaves, and wigs are authorized, as long as they have the same appearance as the individual's natural hair. Parts are to be one straight line, not slanted or curved, and "fall in the area where the soldier would normally part the hair."

And as much as we all love a good lob, or a stylish set of blunt bangs, the code clearly states, "Hair will not fall over the eyebrows or extend below the bottom edge of the collar at any time during normal activity or when standing in formation." Hair that falls below the bottom edge of the collar (including braids) must be "neatly and inconspicuously fastened or pinned, so no free-hanging hair is visible." In laymen's terms, this means buns, buns and more buns.

Photo 7/12

We've had our fair share of updo tutorials, but these women are the absolute pros when it comes to creating precise buns, down to the dimension. "Our regulations state that our hair can't be in our faces or be touching the collars of our uniform. There is no limit on how long it can be ... just so long as your bun isn't larger than a 4-inch wad," says Peterson. The key to a polished bun that stays put? A stock of black elastics, bobby pins, practice, and the number-one cardinal rule: "Spray the hell out of it with hairspray," Peterson recites.

However, bun fatigue is a real occupational hazard. "Some women cut their hair short to avoid buns, but the challenge is that it always has to be above the bottom edge of your collar. That means a lot of trips to the hair salon for trims," Baer explains. Frost is one of those women who has avoided the daily bun routine. "I've tried a couple of styles, but have kept the bob style for multiple years. The simplicity of the cut and the ability to wear my hair down makes this style optimal for me."

Photo 8/12

In AR 6701-1, men get an extra section about facial hair restrictions (with a handy face diagram), and women get an extra section on cosmetics. Women are authorized to wear cosmetics with all uniforms, so long as they are applied "conservatively and in good taste and complement the uniform and their complexion." Baer translates: "We are limited to wearing modest colors in makeup -- not anything faddish." In short, don't even bother trying to get away with anything eccentric, exaggerated (sorry, dramatic cat eye), or overly trendy in color.

Lipstick gets called out in particular. "Females will not wear shades of lipstick that distinctly contrast their complexion, that detract from the uniform, or that are extreme," meaning lip colors in purple, gold, blue, black, white, bright (fire-engine) red, khaki, and fluorescent colors." We may be clinging harder to our NARS velvet matte lip pencil, but like with all rules, there are bigger things at play. "While I love colors and glitz, I'm focused on the mission just like the next professional when on duty," says Baer. "This means dressing within regulations just like the next service member."

When you're on the front lines of battle, there's plenty to worry about. You have to be on constant alert for snipers, sneak attacks and hidden explosives. What you're not so concerned about is a bad hair day or a broken nail. Still, that doesn't mean beauty products and rituals have no place in female soldiers' daily lives. Earlier this year, the Pentagon removed its ban on women serving in combat positions. This groundbreaking ruling opened up more than 200,000 positions for women in front-lines jobs, such as tankers and infantryman

While women finally gained equal footing in the armed forces -- at least on paper -- clouds of doubt still hover over their ability to measure up to their male counterparts. To complicate matters, female Israel Defense Force officers made news this past summer for their petition to expand manicure options and polish colors. Though this may seem like two steps back for women and their place on the battlefield, women on the front lines defend their right to a proper mani. When we spoke to Army Lieutenant Colonel Candice Frost, Air Force Major Ashley Baer, Air Force Officer Sarah Peterson, and Army Medic Kristie Robson, they insisted that refusing to compromise society's idea of femininity -- even in fatigues, and even in battle -- empowers women.

"Some women may feel pressured to conform to a masculine standard at some point in their careers. But I believe all women eventually face a point where they decide what is comfortable for them in terms of how they look," says Army Lieutenant Colonel Candice Frost. Early on, I found it's possible to express my individuality and femininity in different ways." Whether that means wearing more dresses during time off or packing a curl amplifier when abroad, it's about feeling comfortable and confident in high-stress situations.

We may use the hypothetical desert island game to pare down our product picks to our absolute essentials, but these women have lived it daily. I took a look at the Army Regulation 6701-1 on Wear and Appearance of Army Uniforms and Insigina, and talked to theses servicewomen to learn how their usual beauty routine has morphed to meet army guidelines. For these women, it's not about hoarding products to cover up sun spots or make your eyes pop -- it's about taking everyday products and turning them into a source of comfort and empowerment in a traditionally male-dominated world.

Beauty on the Front Lines

Ever wonder what a beauty routine in the armed forces looks like? Four servicewomen reveal what they pack in their cosmetic bags when deployed and why

Hair Care and Cuts: The Rules

Hair Care and Cut: The Reality

Hair Styling: The Rules

Hair Styling: The Reality

Makeup: The Rules

GET FREE SAMPLES