Consider Layering Moisturizer
In the colder months, Wesley suggests applying a hydrating serum or light moisturizer prior to retinol to make a buffer. Or use a heavier cream on top to minimize dryness and help protect skin's natural moisture barrier.
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Mix Moisturizer Right In
Mixing retinol with an irritant-free moisturizer can also fight any weather-related dryness. Gohara says that the blending will not impact retinol's superpower anti-aging and acne-fighting ingredients, but avoid mixing in a moisturizer with ingredients such as alcohol and synthetic fragrances.
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Look for Time-Released or Encapsulated Retinols
Time-released retinols are brilliant because they deliver the formula over a prolonged period rather than in a big punch all at once, which helps quell the potentially irritating effects of retinol. The Arbonne Intelligence Counter Spot Essence, $70, contains time-released, ceramide-encapsulated retinol with aloe vera for a formula that has been tested to be non-irritating.
Similarly, the Alchimie Forever Advanced Retinol Serum, $99, contains two types of retinol with time-release technology for a gentler approach. Additionally, it has a plethora of hydrators including jojoba oil and hyaluronic acid as well as European blueberry and red clover to help negate the typical side effects of retinol.
Darden recommends her Shani Darden Retinol Reform, $88, to her clients to keep their skin glowing in between facials. It's formulated with an effective encapsulated retinol which is more stable and less irritating than a prescription retinol. She warns that a prescription formula may be harder to use regularly in winter because of its higher strength.
Try a Retinol Alternative
Those with retinol sensitivity might have fewer side effects with retinol alternatives, such as bakuchiol. Board Certified Dermatologist Dr. Rita Linkner of Spring Street Dermatology in New York City suggests the Rodan + Fields Redefine Overnight Restorative Cream, $90, as a great product to be used as a barrier and retinoid layer. It is formulated with bakuchiol as well as calming niacinamide to create an even skin tone.
Should You Use Retinol on Wind-burned Skin?
It's a wise idea not to. Linkner advises skipping retinol during the night if the skin is wind-burned so as to not aggravate that sensitive face. Start using retinol again after skin returns to normal and reintroduce it slowly, as per Wesley.
Think about it this way: "Retinol can be used on sensitive skin, which can be red," says Polla. "However, retinol is best not used on sensitized skin — meaning skin that has been made sensitive by another product, a professional treatment, or wind or sun burn."
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