AKA alpha-hydroxy acids, these include glycolic, lactic and citric acids, all of which gently exfoliate by dissolving dead skin cells for a smoother, brighter, more even complexion, says NYC cosmetic dermatologist Dr. Sejal Shah, founder of SmarterSkin Dermatology. An added boon: Using AHAs also help improve the penetration—and efficacy—of other ingredients you're using, adds Chicago dermatologist Dr. Jordan Carqueville, MD.
Parched skin's BFF, this molecule draws in moisture and can retain up to 1000 times its weight in water, instantly hydrating your complexion and making it appear plumper and smoother, points out Shah. Plus, unlike other heavy-hitting hydrators, this feels featherweight (never greasy or heavy), making it a great choice for a morning moisturizer or to use under makeup.
Dealing with dry, stressed, irritated skin? Ceramides are a must. Picture your skin as a layer of bricks and mortar; ceramides are part of the mortar, ensuring everything stays strong and healthy. "They're lipids that strengthen the skin barrier and seal in moisture," explains Carqueville. An intact skin barrier also keeps outside irritants from getting in, making ceramides choice for conditions like eczema, adds Shah.
The over-the-counter version of prescription retinoids, pretty much every single dermatologist we've ever talked to names all of these vitamin A derivatives as the number one anti-aging ingredient. "Retinol is a well-established anti-aging powerhouse," says Shah. "Besides improving skin texture and firmness, it also evens out skin tone and reduces the appearance of pores." Oh, and did we mention that it can also treat acne too? While this retinol is the most common OTC option, there are also other versions (retinyl palmitate, retinaldehyde) which deliver similar benefits, though are slightly less potent. Whichever one you choose, keep in mind that it will take your skin some time to get used to this strong stuff, so start by using it every other night for two weeks, then gradually increasing to nightly use.
Multi-tasking for the win. Vitamin C is a powerful antioxidant, neutralizing skin-damaging free radicals caused by UVA/UVB rays and pollution, helping to prevent both skin cancer and aging, explains Carqueville. As if that weren't enough, it also fades dark spots (and prevents new ones from occurring) and stimulates the production of new collagen, says Shah. (FYI, it sometimes appears as "ascorbic acid" on skincare labels.) Fun fact: Eating it also has similar collagen-boosting benefits, so load up on red peppers and citrus fruits.
