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The ABCs of Acne

Everything you need to know about the causes of and treatments for acne, your most mystifying skin issue
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M Is for Micro-dermabrasion
Handheld microdermabrasion tools are being released in droves, and they seem to make perfect sense for women plagued by post-acne discoloration. Our experts endorse in-office microderm treatments -- but when it comes to those at-home gadgets, proceed with caution.

"I am not a fan of microdermabrasion systems at home," Tanzi says. "The crystals, beads or particles used to scrub the skin can be very irritating, leading to increased inflammation and redness, which is not something we want in acne-prone skin."

Your Rx: Goldfaden recommends derm-administered microdermabrasion for women who have acne scars, but advises sticking to facial scrubs (like his Goldfaden MD Doctors Scrub Ruby Crystal Microderm Exfoliator) for home use. Frank recommends a gentle facial scrub or brush, a la the Clarisonic Mia.

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N Is for Natural Ingredients
If hard-to-pronounce synthetic ingredients aren't your bag, natural ingredients can be used to treat acne.

"I will always be the first to say natural is best way to go, but this is dependent on the severity of the acne," Goldfaden says. "If the skin is inflamed or infected, then a course of antibiotics should be prescribed." Start with natural products and see what happens, he suggests.

Your Rx: Three natural ingredients get a thumbs-up from our experts. Tanzi mentions tea tree oil, which is "anti-inflammatory and helps calm acne-prone skin," as well as pomegranate seed oil, a noncomedogenic ingredient with tons of antioxidant vitamins. Goldfaden recommends the anti-inflammatory mineral zinc.

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O Is for Oxidative Stress
You've heard of antioxidants and you know they're good for your skin -- you just don't know why. Turns out they're especially good for acne-ridden folk.

Antioxidants fight oxidation, which happens when free radicals form in your body. Free radicals are molecules that have lost one of their electrons. So they borrow electrons from other molecules to become stable, causing those molecules to borrow electrons from other molecules, and so on. This molecule-mooching leads to oxidative stress, which leads to inflammation, a major cause of blemishes.

If you have a high level of antioxidants in your body, this counteracts the inflammation caused by oxidative stress. However, acne-prone people are clinically shown to have more inflammatory markers in their blood as well as lower levels of antioxidants in their systems. Essentially, if you're pimple-prone, you're probably deficient in antioxidants.

Your Rx: Use antioxidant-infused skin care products; investing in high-quality products is key, since antioxidants quickly degrade when they're not properly stabilized. Common antioxidants include vitamins A, C and E, beta carotene and resveratrol. (We love SkinCeuticals Resveratrol B E). Also make sure to eat antioxidant-rich fruits and vegetables as well as "superfoods" like chia seeds and green tea.

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P Is for Pills
Like birth control pills, antibiotics can be taken for several months to treat acne. Your derm will probably prescribe a "-mycin" or a "-cycline" -- that is, erythromycin, clindamycin, tetracycline, minocycline or doxycycline. They're usually prescribed in combination with topical antibiotics to clear bacteria and reduce inflammation.

Another interesting med option: spironolactone, a blood-pressure medication that's used off-label for relieving acne. Spiro is an anti-androgen, and because oil production is an androgen function, it decreases the amount of sebum in the skin, thwarting pimples.

Your Rx: Talk to your derm about whether your acne is hormonal, which can help lead you to the right prescription. "Oral antibiotics work well for people with inflammatory acne and cysts," says Tanzi. "Spironolactone works better for women with adult-onset acne that has a strong hormone component."

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Q Is for Quick Fix
You've probably heard that there are no quick fixes when it comes to acne. Except there are. If you end up with a honker of a pimple, ask your derm for a quick prick.

"Cortisone appears naturally in the body in response to inflammation," says Peredo. "Injecting it directly into a cystic acne lesion works to quickly reduce swelling and speed up the healing process." While this doesn't remove the bacteria that causes the nodule in the first place, cortisone helps reduce the pimple's size within 24 hours.

Your Rx: Cortisone injections aren't practical for regular use, but they're a good option in emergency social situations. "Cortisone shots are great for if you have an upcoming big event like a wedding," says Peredo.

What causes acne, how to prevent acne from forming, and how to treat existing acne are three of the most mystifying issues in dermatology today. That's because acne can be influenced by such a weird amalgamation of factors -- from major influences like lifestyle, heredity and stress down to seemingly insignificant details like what you pour over your cereal in the morning. Here's everything we know about acne and how to cure it, from the foods that cause acne to pimple home remedies to antibiotics for acne.
BY KATIE MCCARTHY | JUN 1, 2015 | SHARES
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