Red Algae
"When used in skin care, red algae is incredibly soothing and protective thanks to its antioxidant properties," says Missha's marketing lead, Anna Kim. "This ingredient is relatively new to the K-beauty scene, so it isn't widely available across the leading brands." Kim reports that previously marine plants extracts were exclusively found in luxury Western brands. The good news is they've started to become more widely available and accessible.
Here's the K-beauty twist: Kim says that the algae will typically go through a fermentation process that's widely known throughout Korean beauty as the best way to extract actives without compromising benefits. Look for red algae in Missha's Red Algae range, which has an essence, serum, lotion and cream. It's also in the Then I Met You The Giving Essence, $50, and Neogen Pore Tight Peeling Mousse, $26.
Artemisia/Mugwort
Artemisia — or its less sexy name, mugwort — is another up-and-coming hero of Korean skin care. "Where to begin with how incredible artemisia is?!" says Kim. "[It] is widely known for being calming, soothing and reparative." Mugwort is rich in vitamin A and C and can do everything from brighten skin, tame breakouts and reverse damage caused by environmental aggressors."
Because of its versatility, artemisia is found in an array of products, including moisturizers, essences, serums and even sheet masks.
Missha launched a range of artemisia products last year, including the best-selling Time Revolution Artemisia Treatment Essence, $55. Artemisia is the star ingredient in the Round Lab Mugwort Calming Toner, $27. You can also find it in the Hanyul Pure Artemisia Purifying Mask, $19.05, Moksha Dear Mugwort Mask Sheet Essence Type, $2.50, and the I'm From Mugwort Spot Gel, $19.
Cactus Water
"Cactus water" sounds like something the wellness crowd is touting as the next It drink (and, actually, they already are). That said, it's also an ingredient to look out for in K-beauty. Cactus water is linked with the rise of hybrid toners (aka concentrated treatments that provide multiple skin care benefits in one).
"In the past, we saw toners packed with alcohol and other astringent ingredients and were used primarily to remove residue after cleansing," says Lee. "Modern toners are seen as the first liquid treatment that really sets the tone for the rest of your routine to follow."
The Glow Recipe Watermelon Glow PHA + BHA Pore-Tight Toner, $34, features a cactus water base with watermelon extract (duh) and hyaluronic acid. Lee says that it utilizes a 360 inside-out pore-refining approach that was inspired by the Korean aqua peel facial.
"When we would travel to and from Korea for work, the aqua peel facial is the most popular treatment at derm clinics for its ability to refine pores and hydrate at the same time," says Lee. "The Pore-Tight Toner provides an equal balance of effective pore-refining PHA and BHA and hyaluronic acid with an innovative 'stretchy' texture due to the cactus water base."
Cactus water can also be found in the Sioris A Calming Day Ampoule, $30.99, and the May Coop Raw Moisturizer, $40.
Calendula Extract
Calendula extract is something you might be familiar with. "This naturally occurring ingredient is extracted from marigold flowers and is widely known for its antiseptic, anti-inflammatory and antibacterial properties," says Kim. "It's fantastically soothing, moisturizing and a really great option for those with eczema or sensitivities." Skin care lovers might associate it with the popular Kiehl's Calendula Herbal-Extract Toner, $23, but the natural ingredient has been gaining a lot of traction lately in Korea, according to Kim.
See the soothing benefits of calendula in the AprilSkin Calendula Peel Off Mask, $24.80, Aromatica Comforting Calendula Decoction Juicy Cream, $33.90, and the Neogen Dermalogy Real Flower Cleansing Water Calendula, $22. Furthermore, Missha is dropping a calendula range in September.
